How can I use graphics software to make my enamel pins?

Let’s Create Enamel Pins!

I want to state upfront that it’s entirely alright if you have no concept of what “vector” is, don’t know what a “vector” is, or think of Southwestern houses when you hear the name “Adobe.” The greatest method is the one that seems the most natural to YOU

So I’m going to walk you through a couple of different ways you may make your art in this post that we can definitely, positively work from. Typically, the pins we create begin life as raster pictures. Raster graphics function well as long as the file is large and clear.

Going Back to the Basics: Hand Drawing

Yes, we can work from a hand-drawn image, believe it or not! However, it can also be a terrific way to keep a hand-done feel in the final enamel pin, which can add a lot of charm. Admittedly, this method provides you with a bit less control over the end output than some of the others.

The only thing we require from a hand drawing is a distinct, black-and-white outline. However, to construct the vector file that we require, we need a high-quality scan or image of black ink on white paper with crisp, not-sketchy lines.

It is acceptable to supply a colored version as well (that will help us add color). The simplest method is usually to simply trace your old artwork onto a fresh sheet of paper using quality black ink. Once the vector has been made, it’s simple to fill in the blanks, just as in a coloring book.

Even a sharp cell phone image will do if you don’t have access to a scanner! (Alternatively, you might be able to use one at your nearby library or copy shop.) It’s acceptable if you don’t have any experience with design tools; as long as you can send us detailed outlines, we can still make it work.

Raster applications, such as Photoshop and Procreate

It’s ideal if you’re already accustomed to using a raster-based graphics application like Photoshop or one of the several drawing programs available. From those photos, vectors are simple to create. The outlines must be clear and not sketchy, just like with hand-drawing, and, like with hand-drawing.

it may be good to send an outline without any color. Stick to solid blocks of color surrounded by solid outlines rather than any form of “brushy” or watercolor effects as they will not convert. Before transmitting, please remove any effects, such as gradients and drop shadows.

Since each raster file has a fixed number of pixels, it is simple to reduce the size of your work without sacrificing quality because doing so will stretch the pixels and distort the features. Designing larger than necessary is usually a good idea (this is true for any product you develop!). Attempt creating at roughly 6″ and 300 dpi if you want a 1.5″ pin (dots per inch- this refers to the resolution of the piece, and is a setting you can change in your design program).

Your Photoshop or jpg file won’t become a vector simply because you import it into Illustrator and save it as an.ai file; instead, it will remain a raster file embedded inside a vector file. But it’s alright, we can create the vector ourselves!

Keep in mind that the metal will be the outline, so as you work, think about the color of your metal! If you’re using black nickel metal, for example, you might not want to use charcoal as a fill color since nickel (silver) won’t have the same contrast as black.

a drawing, a digital version, and the finished pin are all steps in the design process.

An improvement in pin design! A finished pin results from a sketch, a digital format, and our template.

Adobe Illustrator, Adobe Draw, Inkscape, and Corel Draw are examples of vector software.

It’s fantastic if you have prior expertise using vector graphics software. Please send them over! Several factors that facilitate the procedure include:

·Keep your vectors as clear and straightforward as you can.

·Make sure your typefaces are outlined! If not, they might not deliver. The simplest method is to choose the text and choose Type > Create Outlines in Adobe Illustrator.

This converts a font into pre-determined artwork. If we don’t have your font, the software will attempt to substitute it automatically, typically using a plain default font.

·Please unlock all of your layers and remove any unused content or layers.

·Do not employ clipping masks.

·Everything is expanded!

·If you feel comfortable utilizing Pantones, either write a list on the artboard for us or assign them in your file. In AI, pick the swatches panel and click on the bottom (or top) left icon that resembles a stack of books to locate the Pantone books. Choose Pantone+ Solid Coated from the drop-down menu under “color books”. We can also utilize hues from the Pastels & Neons book, however, they won’t be fluorescent in the true sense.

·The simplest way to save a vector is as a PDF, EPS, or SVG file if you’re not using Adobe Illustrator.

Apple Pencil and Adobe Draw were used to create this design. You may export images from Adobe Draw as vectors. … the finished pin, is shown here in two color options! by Wild Hunt; pin

What Flies in the Face of This:

The majority of paintings, pencil sketches, anything with a lot of colors and shading, or with shaky, blurry lines

·Photographs

·Other digital effects such as textures and gradients

There is still a choice if your art is heavily reliant on such elements and you truly want to keep it that way: printed pins! We’ll discuss those in a later piece, but for now, suffice it to state that there is a solution.

What constitutes the primary elements of enamel pin design?

To produce artwork that will convert successfully into pin form if you’ve never developed an enamel pin before, it’s vital to grasp the limitations (and advantages) of the medium. The enamel pin production technique imposes the following restrictions in contrast to conventional designing on paper (or digitally), which allows you to use any lines, colors, details, or shading that you’d like:

-A line separates each color:

The epoxy paint used to fill in the colors can only be applied to parts that are divided by metal because all pins are constructed from metal molds. Any colors you apply must be separated by lines in your design since every black line in your artwork will become a metal line during production.

-Thin and complex lines are difficult to translate:

Pins are a small canvas to work on because they are only 1-2 inches in size and are made of enamel, which doesn’t allow for intricate work. Unless you are a very experienced designer and producer who is familiar with the nuances of pin materials and the production capabilities of a pin factory, you should generally try to create simple designs, with bold lines, strong colors, and no shading.

This is because the thinner and more detailed the lines in your design, the more probable it is that they will meld together during manufacturing, producing an ugly pin, or the larger the pin will need to be produced, increasing both the cost and inconvenience for the consumer.

Complex thin lines and shading can be seen in the design to the right. It won’t fit on a pin very well. The design on the left is identical, but it’s been condensed and all the colors are separated by strong, bold lines.

-The price is determined by pin size, not by the number of colors or lines:

It’s crucial to consider how factories will charge for your design while developing or planning your pin. The size of the pin determines to price overall because it requires more materials and labor, NOT the number of colors or lines (which a lot of people assume dictates pricing). This means that you should try to produce a pin design that is simple enough to fit into a 1-1.5 inch pin if you want to start with a little investment (and if you’re just starting, that’s a wise decision).

The majority of individuals won’t be able to wear a 2-3 inch pin on their lapel or jacket, which will increase your prices and reduce the market you can reach.